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The answers to our most frequently asked questions are below.

If you have questions that are not answered below feel free to call us directly on 0115 983 4258.

Who are Cozy Feet Floors and why should I buy from you?

Floor Heating Warehouse, supplier of the Handyheat brand, ¬†which is one of Scandinavia’s top brands of electric underfloor heating cables, distributed exclusively by Floor Heating Systems Ltd (FHS) in the UK . The Floor Heating Warehouse brand is renowned for its quality and is offered with a manufacturers lifetime guarantee. Our instructions are simple to follow and we also have a freephone technical support line to answer any questions you may have. Our technical support staff are also qualified and certified electrical installers, so we can offer advice and answer any technical questions you may have, before, during or after installation.

Is electric underfloor heating expensive to run?

This is the most common question we get and the simple answer is, that the running costs are determined by many different factors so it is difficult to generalise.

However in most cases the running costs should not be a negative factor, especially in new homes, apartments and conservatories with insulated floors.

When the systems are used in a well-insulated building (in line with current building regulations) the running costs are usually very low, the thermostatic control in each room/zone means that you only use just enough energy to maintain your desired room temperature. Based on the default thermostat settings, a 1kw system will cost approximately £0.40 a day, based on an average house with an average level of insulation.

Floor Heating Systems have supplied sole source electric floor heating systems to much larger homes including barn conversions of up to 300 sqm. Electric floor heating stands out as an excellent choice, especially in areas where there is no mains gas supply and the options are electric, oil, or calor gas. Electric floor heating is usually much cheaper to install than ‘wet’ systems and in some of the properties we supplied, the cost was less than half that of an equivalent ‘wet’ system.

Electric underfloor heating is also more efficient than radiators and other convected heat and requires no maintenance or servicing and 100% of the electrical energy is turned into heat energy , rather than being lost as exhaust gases as is the case with many gas central heating systems.

In our experience, the only time electric underfloor heating would be considered ‘expensive’ to run is when it is installed as a heating system in a poorly insulted home, with little or no floor insulation. Our advice for such situations is always therefore to spend that little bit extra on insulation and you will enjoy the benefits of cheaper heating bills for many years to come!

How simple are your systems to install?

See our installation pages under each system type – our systems are designed to be laid by anyone with basic DIY skills, but all electrical connections must be carried out by a suitably qualified electrician and in accordance with current regulations.

How warm will the floor get?

Our systems are designed so that the floor surface will feel comfortably warm , but will never get too hot to walk on! The thermostat regulates the floor temperature by turning the system off when the floor gets to the required temperature, then back on as the floor begins to cool – thus keeping a constant temperature. It does this up to 3 times per minute for optimum control and maximum energy efficiency.

Can the underfloor heating be used as a primary heat source?

In the vast majority of cases the answer will be yes, especially in new, well-insulated properties. The exceptions being old properties with little or no insulation, where you have limited floor space available, such as a small galley kitchen, or a small bathroom. In such cases if may be physically impossible to get enough heat output into a small confined space. If you wish to install a primary heating system in an old poorly insulated property, please contact us for advice.

Can the temperature be regulated?

Yes it can – The FH-01 thermostat controller allows the user full control of the heating system, including the ‘occupied’ temperature, the ‘unoccupied’ temperature and the times of operation using a 7-day/24 hr clock control.

What is the typical warm up time?

How long it takes to heat the floor will vary, depending on your sub-floor and its insulation. Generally the better the insulation the quicker it will heat up, 30 minutes to an hour on a wooden floor, but it will take longer on an un-insulated concrete floor. However, on concrete floors it will also retain the heat in the concrete and therefore take longer to cool down. The carbon film system is supplied with a thin insulation layer so warm up times will be no more than an hour on any sub-floor. However with tiles, if you lay the cables/cable mats onto un-insulated concrete, it can take several hours to heat up. We therefore recommend that you try to use Varme insulated tile-backer boards wherever possible when installing on an un-insulated concrete floor.

Is there a guarantee?

Yes all cables are backed by a manufacturers lifetime guarantee! The thermostats are guaranteed for between 1 and five years from date of purchase.

What is the thickness of the under-tile cable/cable mats?

The cables are just 3mm thick and include a built in return so they only need to be connected from one end.

What is the thickness of the carbon system?

The carbon film itself is less than half a millimetre thick and when combined with our 6mm ‘Depron’ insulating underlay below a wood floor, the total combined thickness of the complete system will raise your floor level by just 6.5mm.

(Note in a conservatory or on an un-insulated floor, we recommend a double layer of Depron making the increase in floor height 12.5mm)

Can the carbon system be used below 'real' wood floors or just laminate/engineered wood?

The answer to the question is yes it can and the carbon foil has been fitted below thousands of sqm of real wood floors during the last few years and we have had no reported problems of cracking, warping or damage to the floor.

There are however two things you need to consider if using a real wood floor:

The installation method, ‘floating’ is best (where the boards are glued/fixed together using the tongue and groove). It is also possible to install the film onto battens at 400 mm centres – please see our Fitting Instructions for details.

The other consideration is the moisture content. Wood is a natural product and as long as you chose timber that is fully dried out and has a low moisture content, you will have no problems. A good wood supplier should be able to give you advice on moisture content and suitability for use over underfloor heating.

I have a chipboard floor which I wish to tile and also have underfloor heating, do I need to fix a layer of plywood before the underfloor heating and tiles?

(Given directly by a technical advisor from ‘The Tile Association’)

There are a lot of chipboard floors around and ideally something else should be done before tiling. Additional plywood is an improvement but current thinking is that 2 layers, with joints lapped, should be used to minimize the possibility of cracking. This would mean putting down say 2 layers of 9 mm each, screw fixed at 300 mm centres. Even use of plywood is not ideal.

Another possibility, (better than plywood), would be to put a layer of Wedi or similar inert tile-backer board down and tile onto that.